A single guinea pig should be kept in no less of an area than 2 feet by 1 foot, although bigger than this is much better, and the area should be doubled for two guinea pigs. The easiest and most durable cages to use for guinea pigs are plastic bottomed cages with metal bared tops, mainly because they are easy to clean and last longer than metal bottom cages. Cages with metal mesh at the base of the cage should never be used, because they cause swelling and infection of a Guinea Pig‘s foot pads. A fifteen to twenty gallon aquarium is suitable for a cage, but they do increase chances for upper respiratory infections because of the poor ventilation, also they can be rather hard to clean. Solid based metal cages with bared tops can be used as cages too, they are fairly easy to clean, the only negative side is that they start to rust over time. The two best substrates to use for guinea pig’s cage would be pine or aspen shavings and recycled newspaper bedding, such as Carefresh or Cell-Sorb. Never use cedar bedding because it cause upper respiratory infections. When a guinea pig needs it’s cage changed depends on how much the guinea pig drinks and how big the cage is, the cage should be changed a minimum of once a week though, and uneaten vegetables and fruits should be removed daily. Guinea pigs are great bowl tippers so it is best to use water bottles instead of a water bowl, for this same reason it is also best to purchase ceramic food dishes. Although it is not necessary, guinea pigs do enjoy hiding places such as igloos, many guinea pigs also like plastic cat toy balls and bird mirrors with bells to play with.

Cage Pictures

• This is a Hagen small animal cage that works out great for 1-3 adult pigs, it typically cost around $90 at pet stores.

• These are some more of my cages for pigs and other animals.

• This is a smaller Hagen guinea pig cage, these are ok for 1 adult guinea pig or 2 small babies, they are typically between $27-45 in pet stores.

• This is by far my favorite cage, Marchioro, pictured is the rabbit size, they also make guinea pig size, They either come just as the cage or as kits, a guinea pig kit for 1 adult or 2 babies is usually $55, a rabbit size kit for 2 adults or 4 babies is usually $75, the cages alone are typically $35 ans $50.

• This is a SuperPet cage, it is the Extra Large size, this can fit 2-3 adults in it or multiple babies, in my opinion these cages do not last as long, but always get a size up from guinea pig on cages like this, they tend to make their cages for g. pigs too small, the cage pictured is typically $70-80.

Toy Pictures

• Some examples of different cat toys and stuff animals that are given to my animals.

* These are some examples of hanging (bird) toys that guinea pigs can have.

 These are guinea pig igloos and castles

These are tubes for guinea pigs or other small pets.

Food Dishes, Water bottles

*These are different size waterbottles and different holders, 16-32 oz. bottles are best for guinea pigs, 8 oz. are ok for hamsters etc and small babies.

*These are a variety of food dishes, ceramic and plastic, all are suitable for guinea pigs, the food on the left is ferret, food on top right is hamster, the rest is guinea pig.

Feeding

In order to keep a guinea pig healthy they require very specific nutritional needs. There are four to five main guinea pig food requirements- guinea pig pellets, water, hay, and one or both of fresh fruits/vegetables and/or vitamin supplements. Guinea pigs should always be fed pellets labeled for their species, because pellets made for other animals such as rabbits do not contain enough vitamin C. Guinea pigs when young or pregnant can be fed Alfalfa hay, but once they are adults they should be fed Timothy hay because it is less fattening and has less calcium, older guinea pigs can develop bladder stones from too much calcium. In order for a guinea pig to have it’s nutritional needs totally met it is best to either feed a variety of fruits and vegetables once a day and/or place vitamin supplements in their food or water. Many pet stores sell vitamins labeled for guinea pigs, but you can also give your guinea pig chewable children’s vitamins every other day. Guinea pigs require a lot of vitamin C so it is best to feed them fruits and vegetables high in it such as Kale, Collard Greens, Broccoli, Oranges, Parsley , and Tomato. Fresh water should always be available to the guinea pig. Vitamin E oil can also be mixed in with the pellets which improves the guinea pigs skin and coat as well as helps the digestive system.

• This is an example of a complete food set-up, hay, a bowl for somes oats as a treat, a bin feeder with pellets, and a water bottle.

Guinea pigs are relatively cleanly animals, but they do require simple maintenance. Guinea pigs have teeth that constantly grow so it is necessary to provide objects for them to chew on. Wood sticks made for small animals or a carrot every day will ware down the teeth well enough. Guinea pigs also require nail trimmings at least every other month. Guinea pig’s nails can be trimmed with small animal nail clippers, cat nail clippers, or human finger or toenail clippers depending on how big around the guinea pig’s nails are. Baths are not a necessary requirement for guinea pigs, but can be given . Some stores sell small animal shampoo, but guinea pigs can also be bathed in kitten shampoo and human baby shampoo, it is best to stay away from puppy and dog shampoo because it is very strong.

Guinea pigs are very susceptible to colds and upper respiratory infections, at the first sign of coughing or sneezing you can put a tiny amount of vapor rub on the pig’s nose. Another common disease is Scurvy which is a vitamin C deficiency, in order to prevent Scurvy guinea pigs should have their diet supplemented with vitamins, if you expect Scurvy your guinea pig can be given one fourth of a 250mg vitamin C chewable tablet once a day. Another common problem in guinea pigs is sarcoptic mange, which is a mite that burrows underneath the skin. The guinea pig will scratch a lot and will loose a lot of hair, sulfur shampoos and certain oils can help this condition (not cure it), but in severe cases injections of Ivermectin will have to be administered. Even though this section offers advice to treating guinea pigs, if your guinea pig is ill you should take it to an Exotic Veterinarian.

Common Health Problems

This section is for the use of regular visitors and any Allexpert.com clients that need medical advice.

Upper Respiratory Infections

    Upper Repiratory Infections are very common in Guinea Pigs, they can start as a cold that was caught from a human in the house, or just a simple draft. Any pig with a lower immune system is at risk for an upper respiratory, that is why I recommend plenty of added vitamins and fruits and veggies. Symptoms of an Upper Respiratory are watery eyes, watery nose, wheezing, coughing, conjestion, a fluffed up appearance, lack of appetite, and can also include diarrea. A pig with a URI does not have to show all of these symptoms, many times if your pig just has eye or nose drainage it is just an early stage of a URI. There are 2 stages of a URI, the Pre- Infection stage, where the pig might show slight drainage, but is still eating and drinking and seems to be active: then there is the Infection stage, this is when the pig is ill, not wanting to eat or drink and excessive drainage. When a pig is in the Pre-infection stage a URI can most of the time be cured with out going to the Vet, but by all means if possible do take it to the vet to get antibiotics just to prevent it from getting worse. The infection stage does require antibiotics, the treatment listed below can be used in conjuction with antibiotics, but the URI has gotten to a point where antibiotics are necessary. URI's DO KILL, and very quickly, if your pig has not been eating for 12 hours or more it WILL need to see a vet, there are some things that can be done to help, but it may be too late for you or a vet to help. Guinea pigs with URI's do best on Sulfur based antibiotics, never let a vet give you Penicillin based drugs for a guinea pig, Penicillin (Amoxicillin or any ..cillin) are toxic and deadly. Tetracyclines are best not to be used either, the effects are not fully understooded, so just use Sulfur. This is the most effective treatment for a Pre-Infection URI, also to use in conjuction with antibiotics for all other cases-- Use 1/8 tsp Robutussin DM cough syrup twice a day for severe cases, 1/4 tsp Robutussin cough syrup once a day for not as severe cases, also place a dab of Vicks Vapor Rub on the pig's nose 2-4 times a day. Both of these will help clear out any drainage, if you are unsure which type to use or have any questions please email or call me. Also if possible take the pig's cage in the bathroom with you when you take a shower and close the door, the steam will also help clear the lungs. If the pig seems to be loosing body heat place it in a blanket then put a heating pad on low under the blanket. If the pig doesn't seem to be getting any better and is on antibiotics and seems to be suffering, by all means consider euthanasia, I'll be the first to tell you that putting a pig to sleep is hard, but think about the pig's interest, and if it is suffering please do not make it go on for the rest of its life. Note: This treatment has worked for me any many other people multiple times, I know it is safe, I can not guarantee though that it will work in your case, some pigs may be too far gone for any treatment to work.

Mites

   This is by far one of the most common problems today. Please trust me on this, no other treatment works than the one listed below, some people may try to state that a magic spray or shampoo will cure mites, but it will not. First lets start with what mites are, in guinea pigs mites are microscopic, under the skin, and species specific, you can not see them and you can not catch them. Mites do spread to every guinea pig near by, please take my advice and do not buy from a breeder that does not treat all the guinea pigs that come in their facility. All pigs now days unless the breeder treats every one of their pigs (I do) or you personally treat the pig for mites will have them. Mites do lay dormit for long periods of time, and typically like humid months and winter, they must reproduce better during those times. If your pig has any hairloss, scabbing, itching, or seizures started by irritation and nervousness it does have mites, the only exception is sometimes pregnant females will have hormonal hairloss on the back with some scabbing. Mites do have to be treated, if they are not it will lead to seizures, which will lead to brain damage, and eventually a slow and painful death. The treatment for mites is a shot called Ivermectin, brand name Ivermec. Some people claim that you can use the pour-on form or use it orally, but this would only be effective for pigs that have already had an initial treatment by injection, many show pigs can have repeat treatments by pour-on in other words ,if they have been treated once before. Shots of Ivermec can be obtained from a vet, or you can do the shot yourself, a bottle of Ivermec typically cost around $45. All pigs in the house will need to be treated, if you are a breeder or rescue I highly recommend purchasing a bottle. Insulin low-dose needles can be used to give the shot, they can be purchased from a pharmacy, usually with no prescription (depends on state), they are VERY cheap. The shot is given under the skin, right at the neck area , do not go into the muscle, just prick the skin and dispense and your done. Make sure that all bubbles are out of the solution before you give the shot, try tapping the syringe for a minute before injection. For minor cases of mites the pig will only need 1 shot, but for severe cases the pig will need 2 shots, the second 2 weeks after the first. All of the bedding and materials will need to be cleaned after the frist and second shot also. Dosage for the shots are below.

Ivermectin Dosage

          * 4-8 weeks old or pregnant sows-  .02 mL Ivermec, then fill to .2 mL with bottled water.

        * older than 8 weeks and severe cases- .03 mL Ivermec, then fill to .2 mL with bottled water

If you have any questions let me know by email or phone, if the dosage given is over it will not hurt the pig, rarely are there ever side effects with Ivermec, I have never had any at all, for severe overdoses though there may be diarrea.

Lice

   Lice are not as common today as they used to be in Guinea Pigs, but I do still get questions about treatment so I will add it on here too. Lice are guinea pig specific, so you can not get their type of lice. Typically they are white or brownish little worms creatures, they can also look like small rice particles moving in the hair, you will be able to see them though if your guinea pig has them. Lice are fairly easy to treat and inexpensive, they can be cured with a Pyrethrum extract applied once a day for about a week, typically you should see improvement with in one to three days, but in order to kill all of the eggs the pig will need to be treated longer. Sprays can be used, although I recommend using one bath also with the sprays. Many flea and tick sprays for small animals and kittens contain pyrethrum, you can also use small animal or kitten flea and tick shampoo, just use 2 baths 2 days apart. A more expensive and time consuming treatment is human lice shampoo, you do have to leave it in for 5 minutes. After treatment is applied it is critcal to clean all cage items, otherwise the lice will just pop up again once the eggs hatch. Lice usually do not come with any hairloss, sometimes there may be minor itching or hair greasiness, but not always.

For a person who just wants one single guinea pig, choosing a male or female does not really matter, but if you want two or more Guinea Pigs it is best to get all females. Typically two males will not get along together, although if you buy brothers and never separate them they may not fight. Females if accidentally pregnant (it can happen as early as four weeks), will carry their babies for 63-70 days (typically give birth on day 68), and the babies are furred, their eyes are open, and they can eat solids at birth, although they will still drink milk. Sexing is fairly easy to accomplish if the guinea pig is at least 3 weeks, but it is possible to sex guinea pigs at birth. The guinea pig should be held one hand gripped just below the front feet, and the other supporting the pig’s bottom, then extend your thumb to press above their male or female parts. Males will first appear to have a round dot in the middle of the Y shape, if pressed above the dot, it should extend exposing the sheath. Females will have a Y shape with a slit in the middle, if you slightly lift the skin above the slit and on the sides you will see a white mucous plug in the middle of the Y's intersection (unless the female is in heat) and you will see one small dot on each side right under the mucous plug.

** Helpful pictures- www.cavyspirit.com/sexing.htm 

Guinea Pig Pregnancy

Note: This is not everything about pregnancy that I know, just as much as I think I need to write down for average piggy owner purposes, if you have any questions ask, someday I would like to publish a book about guinea pigs that would include much more.

General Information

   First lets start from the beginning, female guinea pigs are sexually mature at about 6-8 weeks, there are however cases of females getting pregnant at 4 weeks, so separate males and females at least by 3-4 weeks to prevent pregnancies. Males are mature at 4-8 weeks, typically a male can get its mother pregnant at 4-6 weeks, its sisters at 6-8 weeks. Pelvic Bones fuse fully at about 8 months, partailly at 6-7 months. The best age to breed a sow is at 3-5 months. Sows (females) go into heat every 15-17 days, they do not bleed like dogs, some do show behavior changes some do not, the only way you will ever notice behavior changes though is if your female is in with another pig. In other words, leave a male and a female in together for at least 17 days, I like to leave mine together for at least 2 heat cycles to ensure if she doesn't get pregnant the first time, she might the second. When a female is in heat with a male present in the cage, they will both usually purr at each other and the male will strut around the cage, they will mate multiple times sucessfully. Males will sometimes try to mate with females when they are not in heat, but they are usually not sucessful, the female will run around the cage, males will also try to mate with the female after she is pregnant. The gestation period for sows is 68 days, all of my females deliver on this day, few will go to the 69th day. Sows usually start to show that they are pregnant about 2 weeks after they have mated, feel her belly before, then keep feeling it, you should notice a difference in how solid it is and how round it becomes. The babies will start moving 3-4 weeks before the babies are due, you will be able to feel this and see it. Babies are born fully furred, with their eyes open, running around, and they can eat solids. Babies can be weaned at 3-4 weeks, and sold at 4-6 weeks.

Pregnancy Period

  Pregnant females need a lot of nutrition during their pregnancy. Their diet should include a high quality guinea pig pellet, plenty of fruits and veggies, unlimited hay, and fresh water with vitamins. I have noticed if a sow is provided a good diet rich in vitamins, she is less prone to hormonal hairloss and complication, so pay attention to the diet. As a female goes further into her pregnancy, try to avoid excessive handling, by that I mean no more than 2-3 times per day. When a pregnant female is picked up you should place one handed cupped under her bum, and one hand behind her front legs, this will ensure no pressure is placed on her belly. At the end of the pregnancy make sure to keep the cage clean, babies can become ill if born into a dirty cage, plus it is unsanitary. Pregnant females enjoy baby blankets to lay on during their pregnancy, it cushions their belly full of babies well.  Also make sure to write down an Exotic Animal Veterinarian's phone number, just in case there are complications. It is also a good idea to make a baby kit for your sow, the "ingredients" are listed below.

Baby Kit

1 Small Plastic Tub or Crate (for supplies and babies to sit in)

6 or more washcloths, at least 2 for each baby (to clean babies off)

Pack of baby wipes ( both for your hands and to further clean babies)

2 grocery sacks (one for trash, one for dirty washcloths)

1 container of septic powder (stops excess umbilical cord bleeding, can also use flour)

1 baby nose aspirator (to get any fluid from mouth and nose)

Optional- heating pad, to keep babies warm (low setting)

Optional- scissors or toe nail clippers, to cut umbilicat cord (best to tear cord )

Birth

 When a female is approaching giving birth, her pelvic bones will spread (unless too old), and her belly will drop about a day before. Typcally when spread the pelvic bones will be 1 1/2 index finger widths apart. The stomach will usually drop down, and back towards her bum. Some females stop eating a hour before, some eat even during birth. Many females will also start to dig holes in their cage up to a week before delivering. The sow will start going into contractions that will look like belly hick-ups, it usually takes 5-10 mintues from the first contraction till the first baby is born, sometimes less. If possible try to be there with the female during birth. When the baby comes out wipe it down with a washcloth and tear the sac immediately, the baby should start breathing, then tear the umbilical cord with your fingers, leave abouth 1 cm still attached. The next baby should be out within 5 mintues of the first, if she goes into continuous contractions for more than 10 minutes with no baby, one may be stuck in the birth canal, and she will need a water birth (explained later). Otherwise, just keep cleaning off the babies one by one, and place them in the plastic tub on a washcloth or blanket. The whole birth should last no longer than 30 minutes total, unless there are complications. After the female is done she should also deliver the placentas, usually one for each baby, sometimes 2 are fused together though, occassionally one or more will come out in the middle of the litter too, this is usually when there are many babies and one uterus horn is done emptying itself. After the female has delivered, offer her some fruits and veggies, and place the babies back in the cage. If she does not want to accept the babies you will need to handfeed them, which will be discussed soon.

Complications During Birth

   The most common complication is by far a baby, or babies, getting stuck in the birth canal. This can occur because the mother's pelvic bones are fused, or the baby may be deformed. If the female goes for more than 5 minutes of continuous contractions, first try to perform a waterbirth. This is done by filling a bathroom sink with warm water, make sure to place the baby kit in the bathroom, and get out a towel, then place the mother in the sink with only her upper chest and head out of the water. The water will help ease her muscles and make her contractions more efficient during labor. Many females can deliver deformed or stuck babies in this mannor. Keep the female in the water for 3 minutes, then remove her, and refreshen the water to make it warmer, then place her back in for another 5 minutes. If the females starts to become weak during contractions, or gives up, take her to a vet immediately. Do not try this method for longer than 15 mintues, if it takes this long then the babies is obviously too stuck or deformed for this to work, and the mom will need a C-section. Be sure, however, to look under the mom every once in a while, often you can miss a baby when it is born in the water. The babies once born will need to be cleaned off by the person watching over the pig. If you have any questions, or have a pig in labor that is having complications, feel free to call me, I can help talk you through it.